I’ve been traveling to Thailand for the past 25 or so years and have visited many of the country’s tourist destinations, from the busy beaches of Phuket to the quieter, more laid-back lifestyle of Hua Hin.
Even so, Koh Chang wasn’t what I expected.
Located about a five-hour drive or so from Bangkok and a quick 20-minute ferry ride from Trat, Koh Chang is a nature escape with tropical mountains, serene beaches, and a slow pace of life.
After a week of the busy streets and beaches of Pattaya/Jomtien, I headed to Koh Chang for a two-night stay at The Retreat, a 5-star wellness resort situated on the quieter west coast near Kai Bae Beach.
After leaving Korea’s balli balli lifestyle, I was really looking to enjoy the sabai sabai style that Thailand is known for.
And from the moment I arrived, that is exactly what I found, as I was greeted with a cold towel, a refreshing welcome drink, and warm smiles from the staff, which immediately set the tone for the stay ahead.
Upon first impression, the tropical grounds mixed with the background sounds of running water and birds chirping immediately made the outside world disappear.
The first thing that caught my eye was the large swimming pool surrounded by palm trees and lounge chairs, with the Gulf of Thailand stretching out in the distance.
Everything just became… slow.
After entering the room, I dropped my bag and headed straight to the patio, where a daybed sat beside the steps leading into another pool.
I spent the first 30 minutes just sitting there. No emails. No phone. Just listening to the sounds of the resort.
With my busy work life in Korea, I don’t remember the last time I spent doing nothing. And it felt great.
Once I finally unpacked, I took a look around. The room itself was spacious, with a very comfortable king-size bed, a large bathroom, and more importantly, a tropical view of the pool.
While I don’t usually spend a lot of time in hotel rooms when I travel, I had a feeling right then and there that I wasn’t going to be leaving this resort much over the next few days.
In fact, I looked at my friend and repeatedly said, “I’m not leaving.”
Since it was low season in Thailand, it was a bit quiet around the resort, which was great as I didn’t have to fight for lounge chairs, listen to someone’s loud, obnoxious Bluetooth music, and could generally enjoy the island vibes.
I’d almost forgotten what it’s like to sit back and enjoy life.
To give you a better idea of what you can expect, here were my experiences at The Retreat.
The Staff
Whether it was the complimentary shuttle service or the housekeeping team turning down my room, the service here impressed me so much I messaged a friend who teaches hospitality here in Busan and joked that he should have his students come here and learn how it’s done.
From the front desk to the restaurant staff to housekeeping, everyone I met was friendly and helpful, and it’s the type of Thai hospitality that you hope for.
It’s often the small touches that make any stay memorable, and that’s what stood out here.
Dining
I had breakfast and dinner here, and honestly, they may have been the highlight of my stay.
Their breakfast is not a typical buffet, but they offer five pages of Western and Asian options to choose from, all made-to-order.
I went with the Salmon Eggs Benedict and the Tropical Smoothie bowl, and it’s safe to say I made the right choices.
Dinner was on another level.
Served on the outdoor patio as the sun set, the six-course tasting menu blended traditional Thai flavors with a more modern presentation.
Every dish looked like something you’d expect in a fine dining restaurant, but without losing the flavors that make Thai food so memorable.
The standouts for me were the beautifully cooked salmon, while the melt-in-your-mouth pork curry was packed with flavor.
For dessert, while I’ve never been the biggest fan of mango sticky rice, their version completely changed my mind.
Wellness
While I’m not a person who does the whole “wellness” thing, a friend of mine suggested, no, demanded, that I try at least one while I was there.
So I did.
I went with their signature Japanese-style volcanic sand bath, which is said to help with relaxation and circulation.
I must admit I had no idea what I was getting into. When I walked into the spa and saw a large tub filled with what looked like red sand in boiling water, I was a bit apprehensive.
But once I changed into the outfit they provided, I got a better picture of what was about to happen.
Once the water is drained away, you climb into the tub and are covered almost head to toe in the warm sand.
With the meditation music in the background, it was surprisingly relaxing rather than uncomfortable for the 15-minute treatment and the scrub-down that follows.
Would I normally book this? No.
Would I do it again? Absolutely.
All in all, it’s about a 45-minute experience, and I felt very relaxed after the treatment.
I can see why it’s one of the resort’s most popular experiences.
My friend is also still reminding me that she was right.
The Vibe
Because it’s a wellness resort, don’t expect a lively nightlife or loud pool parties.
That’s exactly why I enjoyed it, but it’s worth knowing if you’re looking for a different type of holiday.
The area around the resort is also a bit quiet, with a few restaurants and bars nearby, but it’s nothing like the nightlife Thailand is famous for.
Many of them closed early or didn’t even open, in fact, due to the low season on the island.
For me, though, that was a bonus. There was no temptation to go out. Instead, I spent my evenings enjoying the resort, watching the sunset, and simply slowing down.
After living in Korea’s balli balli culture for nearly 30 years, I’d almost forgotten what sabai sabai really feels like.
Koh Chang reminded me.
Sometimes the best holidays aren’t about seeing more places.
They’re about finding one place where you’re happy doing absolutely nothing.
For me, The Retreat was that place.
Disclosure: My stay at The Retreat Koh Chang was hosted as part of Haps Korea’s International Destinations series. As always, the opinions in this article are my own.
Current Promotion
For those interested in experiencing The Retreat, the resort is currently running its “Island Getaway – Stay Longer for More” promotion until October 15, 2026.
The offer includes:
- Up to 10% off the best available room rate
- All-day breakfast for two guests
- THB 1,000 dining, laundry, or spa credit per night
- Complimentary transfers from Pineapple Bay Pier
- Complimentary room upgrade (subject to availability)
- 30% off additional spa treatments
- 15% off food and beverages (excluding alcoholic drinks)
The Retreat offers a peaceful beachfront setting surrounded by rainforest, with opportunities to explore waterfalls, fishing villages, kayaking routes, and nearby islands, or simply relax and enjoy the slower pace of island life.
